Add keep Alive to Hornby Jinty

I bought the Hornby Freight set. It came with a class 8 shunt diesel and a Jinty steam loco. At the time of the purchase I added a keep alive capacitor to the diesel shutter and housed it in the radiator. The Jinty had an open cab. There was no room for the capacitor any where so I couldn’t install one. While browsing the internet sight of YouChoos an option presented itself. It was a 6800uf super capacitor. My reasoning suggest that it might be able to be installed in the bunker. One was bought on spec. It turned out to be just the right size to fit the bunker of the Jinty.

Note the position of the capacitor in the bunker. Look closely. The capacitor is clear of the mounting hole.

To start the body of the loco was removed. The DCC chip does not have the usual heat shrink plastic cover on it. It was removed from the clip in preparation for soldering. A very small hair sized insulated blue copper wire was soldered to the + of the capacitor. A similar piece of white wire was soldered to the – of the capacitor. These wires were about 4 inches long. The capacitor was fastened into the bunker via double sided tape. Be careful to not cover up the little cutout in the body for, if it is covered you won’t be able to get the body back on the chassis.

Next task is to run the wires to the DCC chip. I fastened the wires to the body via the use of a little Loctite 401. Super glue will also suffice. In either case don’t glue yourself to the model. In the photo you can see how I routed the wires in the tanks on either side of the loco. It went under the footplate on either side too. The visible part of the wires were painted black. The glue was applied using a small Jules’s screw driver. This helps. A small pair of tweezers will be of assistance as well.

You can see the capacitor in the bunker and where to solder the wires on the chip.

A third hand is recommended. Something to hold the DCC chip steady. The photo shows how the two wires were soldered to the points on the board. Remember that blue is + and white is –. Care should be taken when soldering. You don’t want to bridge any connections. Use a visual aid and a small soldering iron. This stuff is so tinny that it is like grains of sand. Loose one on the floor and you will never find it. What I am saying is this. If you are not familiar with such fine soldering work, you might want to get someone to do it for you. Or alternatively go on line and learn about how to successfully do this kind of work. Once this is done the DCC chip can be put back in its clip and the body can be fitted back on the loco. Now comes the time to test. If all went well, the loco should have a functioning keep alive feature.

A close up of the jinty’s DCC chip so you can better see where the wires go.

My loco used to stop on points from time to time. Having keep alive functionality helps the loco get over these spots without faltering. How it works. The super capacitor is like a small battery. It supplies power to the chip for a few seconds. This allows the loco to still operate for a short time while it passes the dead section. Enjoy your modeling.

Unusual Thing to Model

Unusual Thing to Model

This is a story about how I came to model the stripped down Evening Star. The model is a Hornby one from about the 1970s. It is tender driven with traction tires. It came about that I decided to convert it to DCC by installing a chip in it. The chip chosen was a train control systems T4X one. I intended to add lighting at a later date. That’s why the four function chip.

What a job. All manner of problems raised their head. I decided to drill a hole in the frame to access the wheel pickups and supply path for the tender drive. There was little room in the tender so the chip had to reside in the boiler section of the locomotive. This is where the first problem arose. The drill bit snapped off in the hole. No matter what I tried the broken piece would not budge. The solution was to get a tougher drill bit and drill a hole beside the broken off bit.

This worked fine and access was gained through the chassis instead of running the wiring around it. Good! I got the locomotive running on DCC. Next all the rods on one side started coming adrift as I tried to reassemble the locomotive. One of the ones that became unattached was reassembled with the head of a sewing pin. The coupling rod wouldn’t comply with this solution. What to do now? Well being a fireman on a steam locomotive back in the sixties, the solution presented itself. Any loco engine-man from those days would know what to do if this happened on the road.

This incident is not seen modeled anywhere. So I decided to do what we did with the real locomotives. I centered the piston. Put a chock of wood either side so it couldn’t move. Then roped it into position with what I hope looked a bit like tar band. (A type of rope that we used.) You could drive a loco home like this. It is necessary to stop the valve from moving. It should be in mid gear position so no steam can get into the piston. A hard job it is to strip down a locomotive like this. Those rods were very heavy. You can see that I stuck the coupling rod to the footplate. Locktite 401 was used to do this. Just a small dob on each end will do it.

Well that’s it. Do hope you enjoyed this little indulgence.

Repairing Dapol Motorized Signals

Repairing Dapol Motorized Signals

I recently bought some Dapol signals. They were the lower quadrant type. One of them got zapped when the power source was accidentally short circuited. The symptoms were over heating of the unit and the signal not changing.

After removing the cover which is held by a small Philip head screw, I noticed that one of the components was hot. The power was disconnected. Further examination revealed that the motor appeared to be ceased. The blue wire to it was UN-soldered. A five volt DC supply voltage was momentarily applied in each direction. The first attempt failed but on the second attempt the motor fired up. After giving it a bit of a run I soldered it back into the circuit.

To put these signals back together it is necessary to hold the signal in the proceed position to avoid fouling the drive mechanism on the actuation arm. Care must be taken to make sure that the worm gear is in the right position and the switching mechanism is between the two limit switches. Also care must be taken not to squash any of the wires in the plastic moldings during reassembly. The accompanying picture shows what to look out for. The red arrows show the parts that foul while trying to assemble. The green arrow shows where I unsoldered the blue wire. The green arrow shows the worm drive disconnected. The worm drive must be connected to the motor and the switching mechanism needs to be engauged in the worm drive. The motor assembly is held above the circuit board section and the end near the signal base inserted first. It needs to be fully up against the signal base before lowering the rear end.

I think the motor’s rotor some how annealed and stopped it from turning.  Hope this helps someone. Some times it is not necessary to wreck down a signal when it doesn’t work. I have seen some to these signals wrecked down and operated with points motors. Not quite the manufactures intentions and not as satisfying as the original signal.

More on DCC Model Railways

Elesewhere on this site I talked about the Hornby decoder that keepped being reset to use address (0). Following are more thoughts on the subject.

To start let me show you a couple of rules that have been valid from the beginning of electric powered model railways. Firstly is is a dusty, dirty environment. So regular maintance is needed. Keep the track clean. Keep the wheels clean. Keep the pickups clean. In the 60s the locos came with their own electrical filters. Now we still need filters. They can be purchased from various places or make your own. DCC works better with filtering. Sparks or arcing can generate interference which plays havoc with the chips. Both loco decoders and accessory decoders.

In an earlier post I spoke of trouble I have had with an accessory decoder. Well this is being revisited. The trouble was found to be a programming one that was caused by either programming a loco on the main line or electrical interference. The Hornby forum has some entries about this very subject.

How to fix this. First you must reset the chip. It doesn’t mater if it is a loco or an accessory decoder the reset is the same. What is needed is to return the chip to its original factory setting because it has been corrupted. Set the Elite to “Clasic” mode. Write to VC 8 using data value of 8. We are talking Hornby here. All Hornby chips will reset using this process. Some manufactures use a different process for resetting their chips. Check the information on how to reset your chip with the chip manufacturer.

Once the chip is reset you need to reprogram it. You can use the Elite or RailMaster to reprogram the chip. This must be done on the programming track with no other chip present. Set a loco to its previous value in your fleet or set the accessory decoder to the desired group. That is:- if is the third accessories decoder then that would be set to (9).

With the accessory decoder still connected to the programming track read VC 513. It should have a value of 3 in it because this is the third group. If this location remains at 000 then the decoder is not properly programmed. Try to program it again and check the results. Once this is done the decoder will work properly. With out the correct number at VC 513 you will have a recurring problem of the decoder being reprogrammed to a negative value.

It is hoped that this shed some light on an otherwise dark subject. Understanding digital communication is difficult for most people especially if all they want to do is run trains. Programs like RailMaster make live much easier. It is worth spending time to read the instructions that come with RailMaster. This will save you a lot of headaches.

Rail Master Update and Antivirus Software

Recently version 1.63 of RailMaster became publicly available. My copy of RailMaster was duly updated automatically. From that moment RailMaster stopped working correctly. It would start-up ok and set all points to normal but then it kept complaining about loosing communication with the Elite. Nothing I could do would convince it otherwise. It was definitely RailMaster that was at fault. The railway worked fine with JMRI and the Elite.

Two days ago I bit the bullet and decided to fix it. Well I started reading all the PDF files on it that rm_setup.exe puts on the desktop. Systematically each remedy was tried but to no avail. Next thing was to try to install RailMaster on another computer. The first attempt failed. Here is where I twigged that BullGuard might be the cause. This is where rm_setup.exe was prevented from completing the install by BullGuard.

Next step was to make sure I had the latest rm_setup.exe downloaded to a temporary directory. Then go to settings in BullGuard and make sure that both anti virus and firewall will not continue to work once the program was shut down. Switch off the Internet.  BullGuard was then closed. I have Windows 10, so I went to security and settings from control panel to check that Windows firewall and Windows defender were both turned off.

After using programs and features from control panel to uninstall RailMaster, RailMaster installed correctly on my 64 bit computer. A test was done on a short straight piece of track and a single loco. Every thing ran as it should. Before the next step restart your anti virus and firewall software on all the computers that had it turned off and restart the Internet connection.

Now back to the train set computer. It is a 32 bit clam. In the instructions supplied as desktop PDF files some where it says “Make sure you de-register your programme keys before uninstalling and reinstalling RailMaster otherwise you will loose your keys.” To de-register your programme you need to run RailMaster with an internet connection first. Once the programme comes up a nuisance window will come up saying that the programme has lost communication with the Elite.

Pay no heed to the contents of this pop up. You need to press the green tick to get to the "?" icon.
Pay no heed to the contents of this pop up. You need to press the green tick to get to the “?” icon.

Press the green tick every time this happens. Take no notice of what it says. While it is occupied trying to connect with the Elite, click on the “?” icon. The window that comes up will have your keys displayed. At the right is a box to select the key you want to de-register. If you have remote devices de-register them also. Once you have ticks all down the right of the keys click on de-register. A pop-up will show asking if you really want to do this. Answer yes. After a time the RailMaster main screen will show “EVALUATION” at the bottom right and a window will pop up saying you have successfully de-registered your programme. Gee! I hope you remembered to write down all the keys and what they were for.

Remember to de register your keys.
Remember to de register your keys.

Do not proceed any further if you did not receive a successful de-registered message. At this point I went to programs and functions to uninstall RailMaster. What I noticed was that there were two instances in the list of RailMaster. I un-installed both. A copy of the latest rm_setup.exe needs to be available for installation. The internet was once again turned off. I could have done the key de-registration while it was on the first time but I didn’t. The anti virus and firewall software was once again disabled. On the 32 bit clam the rm_setup.exe programme was right clicked on and it was run with administrator privileges. This time the set-up programme completed successfully.

Testing was done on this computer as it was with the 64 bit one. The tests were successful. What happened next? The anti virus and firewall software were turned back on. The internet connection was also turned on and once the internet became available RailMaster and the hand held devices were once again registered using my keys. Each hand held device becomes available for registration once you use it to connect to RailMaster.

BullGuard complained about rm_setup.exe being a virus. It complained twice and twice I pressed “Register a False Positive”. I don’t know weather this information gets back to BullGuard or not but my copy of the programme didn’t prevent RailMaster from running. I still don’t know what will happen when the next update comes around. Happy Railway sessions.

One thing must be mentioned before the end. What was said earlier about the pop up above where it says lost communication with the Elite only applys to this problem. You should explore its solutions first. Some anti virus programmes like McAfees and Nortons may need un installing first. Install Rail Master then install your anti virus programme again. This is one of the reasons I like BullGuard. You can turn it off, but be careful. Never go on the internet without protection.

 

Railway Signaling How it all Works

Mechanical-signalling-north-geelongSignals are there to protect something. It might be a train or something in a siding. Home signals protect a station yard. Starting signals protect track sections ie. the track between stations. In life everything has a purpose therefore a signal must have a purpose. Weather it is on a real railway or a model it must be protecting some asset or it has no purpose.

This is why placement of signals is important. Another factor that effects signal positions is the ability of the train driver to sight the signal. Some times there are additional signals like outer home signals and advance starter signals. Distant signals are used to warn the driver of the trains approach to a stop signal on track sections between stations. They also tell the driver on approach to a station weather the train is required to stop at the station or not. This is only true with semaphore signals. Colour light signals used as approach signals are really just repeaters giving advanced warning of the state of the home signal.

75c854b8-b7f9-4109-8d1a-32572f4fbcb4The interlocking is designed to make sure the track is properly set before the relevant signal can be pulled. It also prevents points from being changed while the route is set. Interlocking bars and leavers are used to accomplish this as well as locking the points against movement. In the signal cabin beneath the floor there are cams which move with the leavers. These cams lock leavers that control opposing train movements.

220px-Rail-semaphore-signal-Dave-FThe mechanism for operating the signals is by a leaver pulling a wire. A weight on the signal post sets the signal back to danger once the wire is released by the leaver. The points have metal rods and leavers connecting them to the leaver in the signal cabin. These rod are usually one inch pipe painted black. The leavers are cut from steal plate and allow the motion to turn corners.

These days everything is electric. Points have electric motors. Most signals use LED lights. There are relay rooms to allow every thing to be operated remotely. These relay rooms also house the interlocking which is electric of course. Electronics is used extensively. How else will the computers operate everything. Because of the interlocking computers can not set an opposing or dangerous movement. Logic to operate the signalling system correctly is also built into the computer’s programmes.

Railway Signalling CTC/RCT Modeling

If you can find a book at your local library called “Red for Danger”, read it. Not only is it a good read, it will give you a good insight into how signalling came to be and improve your understanding on the subject.

Semaphore SignalsBasically, signalling became necessary to prevent trains from running into each other. In the early days, semaphore signals became the norm on many railways. Both upper and lower quadrant versions were used. To prevent the wrong signal from being pulled interlocking was invented. Pulling is the action needed to set the signal to proceed. Signalmen are responsible for making sure the track is clear before admitting a train.

Control RoomCTC/RCS are acronyms for Centralised Traffic Control and Remote Controlled Signals. Basically it’s the same system evolved. These times the network controllers have computer screens in front of them with diagrams showing where all the trains are. These diagrams are a miniature representation of the railway network with all the stations, signals, points etc. All traffic is also shown, along with its direction and state of motion. To set a route for a train the network controller need only click the mouse on the train and then click the station/siding where the train is to travel. The system does the rest, setting points, setting signals and organising crossings with other trains.

23_70_66_webIn the past, there were many different signal versions. Today perhaps the most common form is the colour light signals. Very similar to traffic signals on our roads but the red light is on the bottom. Junction signals are used when trains are required to diverge from the main line. Some areas have automated signalling. This allows trains to run closer together in peak times in suburban areas. It also allows for closing the gap between trains and queuing in some areas.

Track sensing is used to sense the presence of trains. Previously in the old days this was not available or widely used. The first detection systems were just a short length of track electrically isolated from the rest of the track. They were usually placed on the approaches to signals that the signalmen couldn’t see. This allowed the signalman to become aware of a train standing at the signal. A train standing on the detection track acts like a switch, its wheels completing a circuit. Magnetic systems are also common.Colour light signals

In modern times there are axle counters to count trains into and out of different sections of track. Electrical detection is also used. On model railways these systems are replicated. There are other systems used with models as well. Ones like LDRs (Light Dependent Resistors) and field effect transistors and so on. Basically on a model what ever works is ok.

The New Hornby 47 Class with TTS Sound

Hornby 47 401. <-Click this link to view video. I recently received the new 47 class loco with TTS sound (47 401) (R3287TTS) direct from Hornby.

First Impressions.

My first impression was one of amazement. When the postman handed me the package it was too light. I thought, that can’t be a locomotive. It’s too light. Well, I proceeded to unwrap it. Sure enough it was a loco.

The first thing I did was to put it on the programming track and had a bit of a play. Everything was well with the loco, so I programmed a new access number into it. All the sounds were there but way too loud in your face. The next step was to set the master sound to 1 instead of 4.

Down to testing on the layout. It was soon obvious that my early assessment of it being too light was correct. It wouldn’t pull the skin off a wet custard. About three modern coaches was all it could manage. Next I hooked it on to a rake of 12 four wheelers that I usually use a class 08 shunt loco on. It just sat there and spun its wheels. I wonder why.

Using the directions supplied with the model, I removed the body. Two screws hold down the speaker and another two hold down the plate it sits on. After removing the speaker and it’s mounting plate you gain access to the fuel tank area. It is probably meant to be a sound box for the speaker but an awesome sounding loco that can’t fulfill it’s primary function is useless.

After gaining access to the fuel tank I cut three pieces of steel plate from some scrap. They measure 24mm x 40mm x 4mm. After placing these in the fuel tank, I used a couple of very small pieces of blue tack to stop the metal from moving around. After putting the loco back together, it was possible to pull decent train. To my ear no discernible difference was made to the sound.

 

 

How to Draw a Crowd at a Model Railway Exhibition.

In the early seventies I was in the Gladstone Model Railway Club. We built a donut shaped layout. It was basically a flat table without scenery. It had a single track with two crossing loops. One might think how could this possibly draw a Crowd?

Well it did because of one thing, automation. You see one could have three trains continually running on it and crossing each other in the loops. It worked like the normal railway worked on single line sections. Trains would take their turns on the two single line sections. They would wait in the loops for their turn.

This setup could run for hours unattended. The speeds of the trains could be said to be normal track speed.  That is usually much slower than a lot of models are operated but it is realistic.

One of the problems with operating it was the fact that members would want to run their trains too fast. When this happened, the inevitable run through would occur. Then the train in the opposite direction would be hit as it was entering the loop. Maybe this was what the observers were looking for. However the patrons would clear out until the trains were running again.

All this magic was done by the humble surplus telephone relay. There were two banks of them in one of the end sections of the donut. The plugs and sockets for the wiring were octal type as used in thermionic valve equipment. Another problem occurred during moving the layout. The relays did not handle the traveling too well. The clappers would often become dislodged requiring realignment.

In 1975 I got classed to Cloncurry as driver. When I returned this layout had been changed. They had made it three tracks, no more automation. It was just three trains racing each other around and around. The interest in it was never the same after that at Exhibitions. It simply lost its appeal.

I thought it would look good with Moura Short Line CTC of the era. It was already setup for right hand running. It just needed trailable facing point’s indicators and colour light signals. Once that was done, a backdrop could have been added. Then a little scenery wouldn’t have gone astray. Alas! That wasn’t to be. Ah well, maybe someone who reads this might be inspired to do something similar.

 

Fault Finding Fun With DCC

My DCC layout is just a standard Hornby oval with additions up to F. It uses two accessories modules to operate the points. Of the 7 sets of points 6 are under the baseboard and one is above. That one needed the above table installation because a part of the baseboard framing was in the way. This prevented under board installation.

This is the underside of my DCC layout. One can see the modules and how they connect to the points. Also how the power is connected to the modules.
This is the underside of my DCC layout. One can see the modules and how they connect to the points. Also how the power is connected to the modules.

Ok! It worked fine at first. The layout had only one power connection to the track at one side of the oval. No soldering of fishplates was done. One day when I was using it, the second accessories module stopped working. On investigation, the module had lost its address ID. It was reprogrammed and everything was fine. It continued to work for a time.

Then it failed again. What could it be that keeps setting the address of this module to (0)? After much searching, I found that it would set itself to (0) when there was a power problem. I presume this is to protect itself. The Hornby Elite does not recognise any units that are programmed to (0). However if you use the Elite with JMRI the points controlled by this module worked. The first module would follow up at position (4).

This had me stumped for a while until I figured out what was going on. I went on the internet and checked some of the Hornby forums. Eventually, after much reading, I came to the conclusion that it was a power supply problem. So I decided to put in an extra power connection to the rail on the opposite side of the oval. This being done, there was still no joy on testing. What could be wrong?

Well, the track had been down for a year or so. I reasoned that the fishplates might be the cause. There was plenty of time to build up some corrosion.  The next thing to try was to solder the fishplates. I don’t like doing this because it distracts form the look of the layout up close. After biting the bullet, soldering just the three joints (6 fishplates); the second module was virtually hard wired to the Elite.

At last a successful outcome. Over the course of time the three joints has built up corrosion enough to cause problems while switching. Now I know why many people recommend soldering all fishplates on DCC layouts. They also recommend running feeder wires all the way around under the layout. This might be ok for large layouts but the Hornby oval is so small it doesn’t need this.

DCC layout. This is where the second accessories decoder is conntcted.
DCC layout. This is where the second accessories decoder is connected. You can see the soldered fishplates if you zoom in.

Soldering the fishplates is a tedious task. It makes it hard to pull track up later should it get damaged or you want to make changes. I find that soldering a jumper wire around each fishplate, under the table is a better option. There is less likely hood of inadvertently damaging adjacent track if you want to change things. You can just cut the jumper wire and join it again later. Jumper wires don’t need to be real thick either. It’s the feeder wiring that needs to be heavy gauge. I have heard of 10 amp fuse wire being used to connect around fishplates. I prefer to hide my wiring on the layout. Wiring on a layout can spoil the whole illusion should it be seen.

This is where the power from the Hornby Elite connects to the track.
This is where the power from the Hornby Elite connects to the track. The wires are soldered on under the fish plates.

If you are going to solder your fishplates, do it outside the rails. The reason for this is that any build-up of solder between the rails can cause derailments. If you are too young to remember fuses in the house wiring then I will explain. It is a short piece to tined copper wire fitted across a porcelain holder which fitted into a socket made for it. The size of ten amp fuse wire is about 80 sgw. This is quite small. I was in Bunnings the other day. I came across a circuit breaker designed as a plug in replacement for the old fuses.